On the Hemingway trail
Leaning back in the comfort of Virgin Atlantic business class, having just finished a massage and sipping the last few dregs of a 1997 chardonnay, P.K. Sood is apprehensive of what lies ahead in Havana. A consummate i-banker and believer in all things capitalist, he is soon to land in the last bastion of true communism. The airport barely passes muster; the baggage hall has no power. Coming out of the terminal, along queue awaits him to exchange money – and they will not exchange dollars.
Sood is soon at the doorstep of the hotel Santa Isabel, which had been booked a month before the trip. It’s mid-afternoon and he knows of extended siestas in tropical islands, but it is awfully quiet at the hotel. A frustrating half an hour later, through Spanglish translations, Sood learns that the hotel has been closed for more than a week, due to a break-down in air-conditioning. Finally, well ensconced in the cool luxury of the Saratoga Hotel, formerly a heritage building, and revived, he is eager to get on the Ernest Hemingway trail of the bars, and in particular, the La Bodeguita. Also called the Mecca of Mojito as the famous Mojito was created here, it was the author’s favorite haunt. Established in 1942, the place originally operated as a shop selling Cuban products and the now famous concoction of rum, sugar, mint lemon and club soda called the Mojito.
By 1950, this was the place to be seen in Havana and through the years, it has stood the test of time, including the revolution, as it enjoyed the patronage of Fidel Castro. The bar, spread over two levels, is overflowing with Mojitos and tourists. Every inch of the walls is covered with photographs of celebrities such as Nat King Cole, Pablo Neruda, Fidel Castro, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Ernest Hemingway, Madonna, Pierce Brosnan, Marlene Dietrich, et al.
Whoever has ever visited or lived in Havana has paid homage to this Mecca and almost every visitor to the bar is convinced that he has to add to allure and tradition of the La Bodeguita by scribbling on the walls, getting photographed (at an outrageous price) and buying the La Bodeguita house collection CD, all of which Sood, as a diligent tourist does. There also hangs a legend that in 1997, a bomb was planted by US agents or their sympathisers at the Bodeguita bar and moments before the bomb went off, a tourist, who was later identified as Ernesto Cruz Leon, a Scandinavian mercenary who planted the bomb, got himself photographed with the bartender.
After all these years, the La Bodeguita may be a bit cheesy with an accentuated touristy demeanor, Mojitos are refreshing and transport Sood into a sublime state of mind and a mellow mood.
The Classic Mojito:
- Six Freshly washed mint leaves,
- Two teaspoons bar sugar
- Three-four ounce of good aged rum and
- Soda Water
Muddle the mint, sugar and lime juice in a tall glass. Add rum. Top with ice and Soda. Garnish with mint sprigs.
And Enjoy!
Original Article as it appeared in Business India
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